Representing a roughly ten year solera of fortified Grenache the Lafage non-vintage Rivesaltes Ambre is a prime example of how lovely (and versatile) this genre can be in the right hands. Creme caramel coffee candied orange peel and subtle smokiness mark the nose and creamy palate. The bitter and pungent aspects of orange zest along with subtly oxidative toasted nuts and hauntingly persistent smokiness offset and compliment what is already very restrained and well-integrated sweetness. The finish manages both to penetrate (thanks to the wine's volatile elements) and caress (thanks to its creaminess). One could hold on to this for a decade at least I am sure. - David Schildknecht