Palmer was one of the few houses who prevailed with its NV based on the tricky 2017 vintage. The house's style of crisp, taut northern Montagne fruit opened up with time on lees very much on show, with apricot pastries and toasted almond flavours captured with a good dash of citric length from the Montagne Chardonnay. Approachable, yet there's nuance and interest here. 57% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Noir and 21% Pinot Meunier, with 40% reserve wines.

Another outstanding effort from this estate is the NV Brut Reserve. Lightly hued with a crisp bouquet of crushed citrus, golden apples, and toasted brioche, it has medium-bodied richness, crisp acids, a great mousse, and shows a clean, precise vibe on the finish. It brings serious acidity yet still stays nicely balanced. It’s going to evolve for a solid decade.

The NV Brut Réserve is a Blend of 57% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Meunier and 19% Pinot Noir, based on the 2016 vintage with 34% of reserve wines. Gentle maize meal and corn husk notes make for a restrained nose. The body is bright, brisk and fresh, while this is not complex, it is not simple, either. A picture of understatement with a brisk, creamy finish. Dosage is 6.9gr/L. Disgorged: January, 2022. - Anne Krebiehl MW