The l’Hortus 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup Grande Cuvee constitutes virtually the identical blend – 60% Syrah; 30% Mourvedre; 5% Grenache – as its 2009 counterpart, but the effect is dramatically different. A tart fresh berry edge and mouthwatering salinity guarantee an invigorating experience, and there is a striking sense of cut and clarity to the fruit, transparent to stone, iodine, pungent herbs, and savory, marrow-rich meaty elements, all the way through to a sustained finish. Hints of toasted wood, smoky black tea, and leather serve merely for seasoning while not detracting from a purity and freshness of fruit that is absent from the corresponding 2009. And for all of the energy and refreshingly tart impingements of fruit and mineral on display here, there is already a patina of fine tannins. This should be worth following for at least half a dozen years. - David Schildknecht