In relatively stark contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wine this is distinctly restrained if not out and out mute as the nose only grudgingly allows glimpses of the lemon grass honeysuckle and lemon/lime aromas. There is outstanding intensity to the round generous and quite seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that possess that wonderful quality of underlying tension which adds a real sense of lift and vitality to the spherical and harmonious Zen-like finish.

There is such elegance on this concentrated wine combining richness with intense structure. A blend of yellow fruit crisp apple and lemon zest flavors surface on this opulent balanced and structured effort. This is meant for long-term aging.

The 2010 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet is impenetrable at this stage. It boasts a serious core of rich deep fruit but the aromatic registers haven't developed yet. Today it comes across as a bit heavy and monolithic perhaps because of the old vines in this parcel. If the wine finds its grand cru finesse in bottle it may merit a higher score in the future. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. -Antonio Galloni