Next up is the 2020 Grattamacco, which really takes things up a notch. A deep ruby red, it offers decadent and harmoniously layered aromas of pristine oak spice, fresh leather, mossy earth, tobacco, and kirsch...

The 2020 Camarcanda is suave, elegant and wonderfully expressive. Lifted aromatics and silky tannins give Camarcanda tons of finesse. Deceptive in its mid-weight feel, the 2020 is beautifully resonant. Pretty floral and...

Rich plum in colour, this has heady fruit-filled aromatics, where you are taken straight to the heart of the action. Plenty of classic balsamic notes of Ornellaia, along with oange zest, fennel, damson, black cherry...

A riot of pepper lights up the nose, from cracked black to green peppercorn to hot chili. Flint and leather undertones empower the heat, while aromas of raspberry jam and vanilla provide balance. The palate stays spicy...

There's a yin and yang between the lush blackberry, black currant and cherry fruit and the tense, grainy tannins in this red, which starts out fluid, then tightens up as it builds to the long finish. Mineral and...

Tobacco, sage and rosemary come through nicely, together with redcurrants and cassis. Full-bodied, yet polished, with a solid and dense center-palate. Tight at the end now, but will open nicely. Needs two or three years...

Deep red with magenta highlights, the 2020 Messorio is the most complete of these wines aromatically on opening and seems to disprove the idea that Merlot is struggling in this region as climate change takes its hold...