This 100% Syrah opens with black-skinned berry, cedar and green peppercorn aromas. On the concentrated palate, fine-grained tannins support ripe black currant, tobacco and licorice. Drink through 2026. KERIN O’KEEFE

If the Syrah of the Keir tastes like the discovery of an ancient sculpture, the Per Sempre is when you see that sculpture cleaned, staged and properly lit in the museum. Thundering, towering, moving. — Danielle Callegari