My second encounter with the magnificent 1953 La Mission Haut-Brion was comparable to the ex-château first. This remains vital on the nose with scents of melted tar, Montecristo cigars and background aromas of espresso that all tincture the red fruit. It's not far away from the 1945. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, a paradigm of the “iron fist in a velvet glove” adage. It’s harmonious and poised on the finish, and while it does not possess the grip to convince me that long-term cellaring should be considered, it has a sense of finesse that is utterly beguiling. Tasted at the La Mission Haut-Brion dinner in London. -- Neal Martin

Powerful, chunky, and with a strong lean to its secondary side with all of its smoke, burnt wood, herbs, wet earth, spice, mushroom, and red currants. The almost rustic finish is chewy, classic, and delicious. Drink from 2023-2025.

...it has lost none of its hedonistic supple explosive fruit. It will not get any better so consumption is recommended between 1994-1997. It offers a delicious smoky berry fragrance a silky creamy texture and a long heady finish. The low acidity provides vibrance and the tannins have melted away. Should you be fortunate enough to have the beauty cellared drink it over the next several years.