This pristine bottle of Bollinger's 1985 La Grande Année was showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of smoky yellow orchard fruit, walnuts, fino sherry and mocha. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and powerful, with a more than vestigial pinpoint mousse, ripe acids and a deep but open-knit core, underpinned by racy acids and concluding with a long, gently oxidative finish. This is a classic Bollinger that's in its prime from well-stored bottles. - William Kelley

Classically styled; one of the all-time greats in standard vintage Champagne. Firm yet elegant with plenty of smoke apple and toast character a fine silky texture and great acidity. Tasted three times; first two bottles were less good. Drink now. 15000 cases made.