At a lovely moment to drink, capturing the vibrant core of St Estèphe black fruits, muscular tannins, with fresh mint-leaf and eucalypytus acidities just as they tip towards tertiary. This is ageing slowly but surely, with the old school charm of Calon Ségur at this period, a touch of iron filings alongside crème caramel, black truffle, smoked earth and raspberry puree, all leisurely unfolding and stretching out the experience. Rebottled ten years ago (at the estate, where it has never left), opened and carafed four hours before serving.