What a complex nose here with forest floor, bark, sliced wild mushrooms and tobacco. Full-bodied and round with very juicy, savory character. It long and flavorful with leather, forest flowers and mushrooms at the end. Drinking wonderfully now.

Great to see how Las Cases has survived from one of the good-but-not-great vintages of the 1980s. This was opened just before tasting, and needs time to uncurl. Opens up to show earthy, brambled notes of blackberry, tomato leaf, undergrowth, raspberry, saffron and crushed mint leaf. So much complexity and layers of flavor, perfectly read to drink. Harvest October 3 to 16, 50% new oak. Michel Delon owner.

I have drunk two bottles of the 1988 Léoville Las Cases this year, and both showed brilliantly, offering up deep aromas of cassis, cigar wrapper and sweet soil tones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, seamless and velvety palate that has shed its youthful austerity to offer real charm and plenitude. Lively and penetrating, it surpasses the 1989 in quality. - William Kelley