The 1988 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is in a perfect place at the moment. It has a classic nose of tobacco, brine and black fruit. It's more austere than the 1989 yet just as compelling. The aromatics seem to gain harmony in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. This example is perhaps the most elegant I have tasted. Morels, cedar and leather notes combine beautifully and lead to a tender finish that you could argue misses a bit of length. But it is utterly charming. Poured blind at the château. -- Neal Martin

One of the stars of the vintage the 1988 has evolved beautifully. Dark ruby with a full-intensity bouquet of black plums herbs and currants a silky smooth texture and full body it is one of the most highly extracted wines of the vintage. Seductively precocious it should drink superbly over the next 10-15 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008. Last tasted 5/93.</P>