There is something reassuring about seeing a bottle of Chateau Montelena. This classic old Napa Valley winery is best known for its Cabernet Sauvignon but they can also fashion wonderful Chardonnay from the Alexander and Napa valleys.The 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate which has just been released is one of the stars of the vintage. The nearly opaque black/purple color suggests terrific concentration. The wine possesses a full-bodied layered richness without the hollowness and harsh tannin that plagued many 1989s. Although there is noticeable tannin it is in balance and drier than in vintages such as 1990 1991 and 1992. This wine needs 3-4 years in the cellar; it should keep through the first decade of the next century.