A robust, chewy mouthful of crème de cassis backed up by tobacco, cigar box, smoke, licorice, and herbs. Concentrated, firm, full-bodied, and drinking beautifully, this is exactly what classic Pauillac should deliver from start to it’s currant, mint and tobacco packed finish. 20 minutes of decanting and it was ready to go. Drink from 2024–2040.

Tasted at The Ledbury at the Grand Puy Lacoste dinner. This bottle is much more unevolved and closed than others that I have tried. It has very good intensity on the nose with blackberry, iodine, cassis and a touch of violets that must have been picked down in Margaux. The palate has a real sappy texture matched with good acidity, but it is very backward and sultry towards the fiish. Bold, dense and introspective, leave this for another 4- years.

The 1996 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, now at 20 years old, has a very typical bouquet for this estate: correct, linear, well defined, conservative but intense, with pencil shavings, cedar and a subtle balsam aroma. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm structure and well-judged acidity that lends this 1996 impressive focus. It is totally and unashamedly classic in style, austere compared to other Pauillacs from this vintage, the kind of gentleman's claret that should grace a dinner table. I have actually encountered slightly better bottles than this one, tasted at the property. It remains a very fine Pauillac that should drink well for 20-odd years ... just expect a little austerity and aloofness. Tasted July 2016. - Neal Martin