This has oyster-shell, burnt-lemon, smoked-almond, dried-citrus, sea-urchin and fig notes. Interesting cedar undertones, too. Sharp acidity, with slightly reductive smoky, oyster-shell and flinty character. Very powerful and structured. Still tight. Will age for years and years. Drink or hold.

Roederer's 1996 Brut Vintage is especially compelling today, wafting from the glass with scents of crisp orchard fruit, dried white flowers, clear honey, citrus oil, buttery pastry, freshly baked bread and iodine. Full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with a deep core of ripe fruit, racy acids and impressive chalky structure, it concludes with a long, saline finish. This is one wine from this heralded vintage that lives up to all the year's early acclaim. - William Kelley