The 1996 L'Ermitage Brut, disgorged in February of 2000, opens with tangy notes of Greek yogurt and clotted cream over baked peaches and apples with accents of coffee, hazelnuts, smoke and graphite coming through with time. The palate is full-bodied and mature in character but has surprising freshness and energy to lift its toasty layers. It has a light framing of creamy mousse and very long, layered finish, a mature style that maintains a balanced richness. - Erin Brooks

The 1996 Brut L'Ermitage is another very pretty, fully mature wine in this tasting. It shows a touch more energy and cut than the 1997 tasted alongside it, but also a bit less body. The 1996 is attractive today, but I wouldn't let this go much longer. Dosage is 12.3 grams per liter. Disgorged: November 2000. -- Antonio Galloni