The 1998 Liesse d’Harbonville from Ployez-Jacquemart has blossomed beautifully since the last time I tasted it and is now showing great class on both the nose and palate. The pure and utterly refined bouquet delivers a mélange of apple, pear, a touch of patissière, a complex base of minerally soil tones, gentle smokiness, a touch of orange zest and a nice touch of fresh almond in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very complex, with a rock solid core, impeccable focus and balance, refined mousse, crisp acids and excellent length and grip on the pure and racy finish. Great juice that still has decades of life ahead of it, but which has really begun to drink brilliantly at age seventeen. 2015-2035.

The 1998 Brut Liesse d'Harbonville shows notable balance in a focused driven style. Smoke minerals apricots and baking spices come together in a refined elegant style. The mousse is finessed and the finish retains tons of energy all the way through to the close. This delicious Champagne at times shows elements of Chablis-like minerality in its understatement and polish but with a touch more volume. Today the wine is quite fresh and should continue to drink well for at least another decade or so. The Liesse d'Harbonville is made from Premier Cru fruit and vinified in oak barrels. Disgorged: February 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. -- Antonio Galloni