This is a good example of how the 1998 vintage was better in the region of Bolgheri than 1997. It shows superb fruit with berry and chocolate character and hints of nuts and dark fruit. It's still full-bodied with chewy yet polished tannins. This is tight and like a wine 10 years younger. Decant three or four hours before serving.

A moment when people sat up and took notice of Masseto, and saw its personality was clearly different from the rest of Tuscany. Graphite, intense spice, red pepper, black olives and chocolate shavings, velvety tannins still with clear density at 23 years old. A brilliant choice for drinking now. This was a dry summer, with a cool harvest that meant Sangiovese in the rest of Tuscany struggled with full ripeness, but on Masseto's site, and with the Merlot grape, they were able to achieve this rich fruit character. A point of reference for the estate, and a real privilege to taste at this point. 100% new oak.

The 1998 is even better. It shares much of the richness of the 1997, but with more delineation and nuance. The wine blossoms beautifully on the mid-palate and finish, with layers of expressive fruit and fabulous overall balance. This is a stunning Masseto. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. - AG

Dark color, with intense aromas of green and black olives and rich, ripe raspberries. Full-bodied, with big velvety tannins and a bold, exciting finish. This is very structured. Full throttle.--Masseto non-blind vertical. Best after 2007. 2,580 cases made. –JS