An extraordinary one-hectare parcel of pinot noir planted in 1964. Deep golden hue. An extremely rich and majestic nose with savory notes of cocoa, smoked mushroom, forest floor earthiness, grilled hazelnuts, orange marmalade, spiced cherries, plums and spiced bread. Wildly complex! The palate has a languid, toasty core of flavor with a deep warming wash of spices, toasted almonds and grilled hazelnuts. Freshens to dried cherry and plum pastry leading into a smooth and vinous finish. Striking depth and grace. Drinks like an old Burgundy. Disgorged in June 2014. Drink now. - Nick Stock

Clos St-Hilaire is the walled 1ha vineyard behind the founders' house in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, where the tuffeau soil was planted in 1964 to Pinot Noir. This sustainably farmed vineyard is ploughed by horses, and sheep graze here after harvest. The wine is 100% vinified in the house's best old oak casks and aged for 15 years on its lees with no dosage. Made only in exceptional vintages, the 1999 follows on from the 1995, 1996 and 1998, and yields were tiny – just 6,750 bottles in 1999, all individually numbered. It has a very overt nose of the Clos' characteristic old-rose scent, along with orange blossom, ripe nectarine, toasted almonds and honeyed apricots. It's intense and concentrated on the palate, showing mature sous bois, nougat and spiced apple compote alongside balancing acidity. Mathieu Roland-Billecart says the upcoming 2002 release, which will be disgorged at the end of June 2018 and on the market in early 2019, is even more 'super-charged' than the 1999. A great match for truffles.