There is no getting around the fact that lavish oak has a big part in the play of this expressive effort but comfortably centered amidst all of the wine's vanillin toast sweet smoke and dusty earth aspects there sits plenty of mildly briary ripe currant fruit. Slightly supple in feel and showing a good sense of substance from beginning to end the wine is solidly structured and well-balanced with a finely fit spine of firming tannin and it holds its fruity focus through a sustained finish...