98+ Deep garnet with a touch of brick, the 2002 Grange is locked in a time capsule, like many of the 2002s, yielding a very youthful nose of red currants and red cherries, kirsch and violets with some lovely exotic spices in the background. Quite perfumed and pretty in terms of fruit expression in the mouth, the structure is rock solid, with a lively backbone cutting through the muscular fruit and great purity to the finish. If you're looking for that real "Grange" experience, best to keep cellaring it another 5-10+ years. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown

The summer of 2002 was one of the coldest on record, the autumn warm and dry: The season clearly branded this vintage of Grange with beautiful cool fruit and extremely long flavors. The fireworks that Grange can produce are subtle in '02, exploding out in all directions while leaving a sense of elegance. Its power continues to build over the course of several days, almost electric with coffee, mocha, plum and red berry flavors. A graceful Grange? Yes, and sure to be long-lived as well.

The bulk of this year's Grange (77.5%) is from Barossa, with the remainder coming from McLaren Vale. It starts off with scents of maple syrup and lightly caramelized blackberries, plums and a hint of mocha, while on the palate it turns rich and creamy in texture with the bold fruit underscored by vanilla. There's plenty of power here, but it's restrained and tight. Give it until 2015 or so, after which it should last two decades or more. JOE CZERWINSKI

Lithe almost subtle this is a dense powerful wine that plays its plum and currant fruit against deft nuances of pepper coffee and sassafras. Finishes with vibrant acidity that elevates the fruit and spice. A graceful wine that needs cellaring to grow into itself. Best from 2010 through 2020. 1095 cases imported. -HS