Mainly from To Kalon grapes, this dark, young wine is not showing its best now. It hasn’t pulled the oak, alcohol, acids, tannins and fruit together into a seamless package. The individual parts stick out, nakedly, yet possess an innate balance. Mondavi Reserves age well; this one should start to open by 2010 and hold for years after.

Here is a beautifully made wine that reminds that Cabernet is and should not be defined solely by ripeness and hard-charging oak, for, while it may have plenty of each, it shows exceptional balance and genuine finesse, and it is defined first and last by its precise and unwavering curranty fruit. It is wine with plenty of potential, its polish and poise notwithstanding, and it deserves at least a four or five years in the cellar in which to deepen and more fully unfold.

This iconic winery in Oakville has meant so much to not only me but wine lovers throughout the United States. However Robert Mondavi's 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is somewhat of a disappointment. Made from a final blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon 7% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc Petit Verdot and Malbec it is a somewhat restrained mid-weight effort that finishes narrowly and abruptly on the palate. I even asked the Napa Valley Vintners' Association (where my tastings were being held) to open a second bottle and it was identical to the first. Red fruits earth incense black currants and a hint of mint were all present and while this cuvee is very good it is not at the level of achievement one expects of this great brand and winery. Fully mature yet capable of lasting another 10-15 years this wine would benefit from more stuffing complexity and gravitas.