Virtually perfect, the 2002 Shiraz Ares (100% Shiraz from an ancient Barossa vineyard) spent 8 months in old oak, and 12 months in new French wood. Inky/blue/black to the rim, with an extraordinary nose of smoked meats, camphor, blackberries, creme de cassis, and a notion of bacon fat in the background, this is great stuff. Full-bodied with a sensational texture as well as stunning purity, balance, and length (the finish lasts nearly a minute), Michael Twelftree believes it has at least 20 years of cellaring potential, and I see no reason to disagree. Like many of the finest wines of South Australia, it is accessible now.- RP

Ripe, powerful style brims with blackberry, cherry and zingy spice character, finishing with lively acidity to balance the intense range of flavors. Has tremendous intensity without going overboard on the style. It's harmonious and extraordinarily long. Best from 2006 through 2020. 210 cases made.