This is an iteration of a legendary Champagne. Perfectly balanced, still packed with white fruit but just touching nuttiness, the wine is at its peak. Celebrating one of the great Champagne vintages of this century, this wine is totally memorable and magnificent. ROGER VOSS

This 2004 constitutes only the fifth edition of this special bottling that has earned an outstanding reputation, coming after 1983, 1985, 1990 and the superlative 1995. The Chardonnay for this blanc de blancs comes from the five famous terroirs of the Côte des Blancs: Avize, Cramant, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Vertus. It has powerful aromatic complexity with minty, floral and mineral elements, while the dense, generous yet silky texture is supported by finely-judged acidity. This is a character-driven Champagne that should pair well with a poultry dish based on a creamy sauce.

Disgorged in November 2017 after 13 years on the lees, the stunning 2004 Blanc des Millénaires is a worthy successor to the 1995. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of green apple, pear, brioche and fresh pastry that are framed by a lovely smoky, autolytic top note, the wine is full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with ripe acids, superb depth at the core and a textural, vinous quality while remaining very classical in profile. The finish is long and expansive. A blend of Chardonnay from Cramant, Avize, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Vertus, it saw nine grams per liter dosage. This is a terrific blanc de blancs from Charles Heidsieck that has a long and glorious future ahead of it. Sadly, the price of this cuvée has finally caught up with the quality. - William Kelley

A seamless Champagne, showing a texture of raw silk, this weaves vibrant acidity with an expressive range of glazed apple and poached white cherry fruit flavors, with pickled ginger and saffron spice details and rich notes of pastry cream, toast and coffee liqueur. More about finesse than power, this is long and creamy on the mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2028. — A.N.