Suduiraut has a rather delicate floral aroma for a wine that's luminous gold. Botrytis flavors kick in on the palate and the wine explodes. What's left is ethereal: scents of the forest, of beeswax, ginger and Mandarin orange marmalade, a range of honeyed flavors that never seems to stop. A reset for your taste receptors, this is mood-altering wine. Absolutely lovely.

The 2004 Suduiraut has a composed bouquet that is one of the most complex Sauternes in this vintage: dried honey, pralines, dried quince and beeswax all with fine delineation and focus. The palate is rich and decadent on the entry, counterbalanced by a caressing mellifluous texture and a delicate touch of spice. There is a hint of citrus peel on the aftertaste that is commendably long and satisfying. Excellent. Drink now-2030.

Like so many vintages of Suduiraut, this wine shows richness, even in the relatively delicate 2004. Ripe, sweet fruit flavors —dates, figs, pineapples and tangerines—dominate. This richness goes deep down, leaving a texture that is intense and concentrated. ROGER VOSS