Vintage Champagne is always the ultimate expression of a producer. This shows the approachable character of Moët wines, while adding intensity and complexity. It is taut and minerally, with a spiced apple note and nervy acidity. It’s now ready to drink, but it also has good aging potential.

Minerally overtones accent flavors of candied black cherry, black currant and gumdrop that remain fresh, with a lively bead and well-cut acidity carrying accents of lemon zest, biscuit and fresh herb. Elegant yet expressive. Drink now through 2020.

Assembled from surprisingly close to one-third each of Champagne’s trio of major cepages, Moet & Chandon’s 2004 Brut Grand Vintage delivers a delightful aroma mingling chamomile and honeysuckle, pear and white peach, green tea and quinine, all anticipating the lusciously juicy, refreshingly tart and subtly piquant but also silken and buoyant palate impression that follows. As with the corresponding rose, I was surprised to find a decided sense of sweetness from just five grams residual sugar, but the ripe generosity of the vintage no doubt goes far toward explaining this, and I don’t find it at all misplaced, much less obtrusive. Its soothing texture complements this wine’s invigorating vivacity, levity, and transparence to herbal and floral nuances in a lingering finish. I would not be surprised to witness it offering some additional – or at least, new – delights over the next couple of years in bottle. - David Schildknecht