Aromas and flavors of warm plum cake, violet, red licorice, blackberry coulis and cherry preserves glide seamlessly along here, with just a light underscoring of alder adding texture. Features a very fine-grained finish, with lovely minerality that extends nicely. A beautiful wine.--Non-blind Pavie Macquin vertical (December 2014). Drink now through 2025. 4,165 cases made.–JM

Edges of gunsmoke, tobacco and liquorice on the first nose, this feels significantly younger than the 2002 vintage, and you need a little more patience to wait out those drawn-together tannins that are holding the cassis and blueberry fruits in place. The juice and salinity though is already mouthwatering, giving a scrape and a push that both propels you forward and drags you back. These are physical wines in the mouth, which is why they are so exciting. Part of the cool vintages series within this vertical, and a great example of why great terroir can overperform in more challenging years. 80% new oak.

Now fully mature and drinking nicely, the 2004 Saint-Emilion reveals a healthy ruby hue to go with classic Saint-Emilion notes of currants, white truffles, dried tobacco, and cedary herbs. With medium-bodied richness and impressive overall balance, it has solid sweetness of fruit, integrated tannins, and a great finish. This is just a classic, classy expression of this vineyard to enjoy over the coming decade or so.

A noble, complex nose of flowers, beef blood, black currants, licorice, and truffles reveals surprising evolution. The full-bodied, powerful wine exhibits stunning concentration, beautiful richness, sweet tannin, and a long finish. A blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon (all from a bio-dynamically farmed vineyard), the 2004 Pavie-Macquin is another dazzling success from the brilliant winemaking team of Stephane Derenoncourt and Nicolas Thienpont.-RP