Philipponnat's 2004 Extra Brut Cuvee 1522 Disg. 3/2013 represents the latest in a "1522" series begun close to two decades ago of cuvees that have always showcased, to at least a significant extent, estate vines in Ay, in this instance specifically those of the Le Leon vineyard, which are joined by 30% Chardonnay from Le Mesnil and Cramant. Chamomile and mint; almond and freshly milled grain; smoky black tea and bitter quinine inflect the scents and lusciously juicy abundance of white peach, apple, grapefruit and lime, for a performance as fascinatingly complex as it is compulsively seductive. Silken-textured and subtly but expansively effervescent, this coats and soothes even as it stimulates the palate. A marine amalgam of salt, alkali, and iodine lends intrigue and saliva inducement to a peacock's tail finish. As this takes on air, the smoky and bitter elements become more prominent; nutty and cereal elements transform into walnut oil and buckwheat; apple takes on faintly bruised skin pungency; and the combination of these dark shadings with persistent inner-mouth floral and herbal high-tones strike me as typifying Ay. This wine continued to dazzle with its complexity and sensuality for four days (at which point I could not resist the temptation to finish it off!) and I strongly suspect that its bottle evolution will be worth pursuing for at least a half dozen years. - David Schildknecht

The Cuvée 1522 bottlings are named for the year when records show the first Philipponnat family member registered for owning vines in the region. These are intended to complement the Clos des Goisses bottling, focusing up more on finesse and elegance, in contrast to the overt intensity of the Clos des Goisses. The 2004 hails from seventy percent house-owned vineyards (primarily pinot noir), augmented with thirty percent chardonnay from top villages in the Côte des Blancs and has a dosage of five grams per liter. The wine is excellent, jumping from the glass in a youthful mélange of quince, apple, bread dough, a very complex base of soil and a nice topnote of smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and utterly refined, with a rock solid core, elegant mousse, fine focus and balance and a very long, pure and dancing finish. A beautiful wine. 2014-2040.

Intensely aromatic - creamy orange and lightly honeyed. Full bodied with deep citrus flavours and a slight cedary and yeasty character, which became more noticeable as the wine opened up. Appetite-whetting freshness made it an excellent aperitif even though it was so full flavoured. Very long. 17.5/20 (JH)