Disgorged in July 2014, Francis Egly's 2005 Brut Grand Cru Millésime is a brilliant wine in this middling vintage, bursting from the glass with aromas of orange oil, buttered toast, pear, praline and subtle spices. Full-bodied, muscular and vinous, it's layered and multidimensional, with a rich core of fruit, succulent acids and chalky structuring extract, complemented by a pinpoint mousse. This is a gourmand, gastronomic Champagne in its prime today. - William Kelley