This is the kind of light and fragrant Rioja that makes me smile. It stands out in a crowd of modern, concentrated wines with its delicate rose-petal scents and plump freshness. Still youthful, its 12 years of age show in a heady richness that underlies the fruit, as if the darkness of mazuelo had begun to saturate the austere structure of tempranillo, all of it energized by a touch of purple graciano in the mix. It’s easy to imagine the lamb chops coming straight off the grill as you taste this wine.