Once more, a consistent, concentated, balanced and poised St Julien, with a hint of abandon. Grilled almond, flint and crayon edges fill out the cassis and bilberry fruits. The 2006 feels significantly younger than the 2004 or 2005, although still ready to drink with a short carafe. A beautiful wine with finesse and punch. 40% new oak, harvest September 20 to October 6. Remi di Constanzo technical director.

As I wrote last year this sensational sleeper of the vintage is not far off the pace of Gloria's brilliant 2005. Sweet cedary cigar box roasted herb and black currant fruit aromas are followed by a lush full-bodied textured concentrated wine. A steal in today's marketplace this is a gorgeous St.-Julien to enjoy now and over the next 15+ years. Good value.

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