Decidedly more serious and structured, the spectacular 2006 Clarendon Hills Syrah Hickinbotham is 100% Syrah that comes from ungrafted, dry farmed bush vines and clay and limestone soils. Aged for 18 months in 85% new French oak, it delivers a knockout array of focused black fruits, bay leaf, smoked bacon, licorice, pepper, and black olive that flows perfectly to a full-bodied, balanced, and incredibly fresh palate. Nothing is out of place, it has gorgeous concentration, and integrated, clean acidity that shines on the lengthy finish. Count me a fan, and this powerful, yet elegant Shiraz has the fruit to shine now, yet will continue to evolve for another decade or more. Don’t let any Aussie bias keep you from trying this wine!