Definitely dry, this impressively crisp wine is tightly textured, mineral in character and with great fruit. Its acidity and taut tangy character are part of a sophisticated wine that is still maturing. The hints of toast are there, but this beautiful wine will take a while to show its full potential. Drink from 2019. ROGER VOSS

The spicy pinot noir holds sway on the nose with an array of sous bois, flinty minerals, dried cherries and brioche. The smaller component of chardonnay (25%) delivers a crisp lemon acidity on entry, which builds weight to a cherry-pastry finish. Lots of potential here. Try from 2020.

Billecart-Salmon's intense and vinous 2007 Vintage blends 75% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Aÿ) with 25% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs villages Avize, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Chouilly and Vertus. Vinified in stainless steel, the bouquet indicates pure, ripe and refined fruit with delicate brioche and morel scents as well as fine chalky and super discreet marzipan and nougat notes. Full-bodied and very intense in its fruit flavors, this is a rich, persistent, pure, just ripe and refined 2007 with a finish that is remarkably fresh but not fully round. Disgorged as Extra Brut in December 2017, tasted in November 2018.