Ripe yellow peach and papaya flavors are framed by tangy acidity in this juicy white, with hints of lemon curd, smoke, honey and beeswax layered in as well. A broad, juicy white, with a lingering, smoke-tinged finish. Drink now through 2020. 75 cases imported. –AN

With 43 grams of residual sugar, it was inevitable that the Mann 2008 Pinot Gris Hengst would taste unabashedly sweet, even with acidity that is only slightly less extreme for this grape variety than that found in the corresponding Rosenberg and Furstentum. White truffle, liver pate, peach, and orange intrigue the nose; then perform on a surprisingly glycerin-rich yet palpably chalky palate, with fresh orange offering juicy persistence. Hints of caramel and honey are reinforced by the wine’s sweetness and at least in this youthful phase come off as slightly at odds with its Riesling-like brightness. Still, this multi-faceted, muscular, vibrant Pinot Gris should become more harmonious in a few years and have 15-20 years of health ahead of it, time enough for its overt sense of sweetness to back-off, allowing it, I predict, to be more adaptable at table. - David Schildknecht