Claude Branger's 2008 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Les Gras Moutons is just arriving on the market and devotees of this cuvee will hardly need to be told either that it is worth the wait nor that they should lay in a supply to enjoy over the next 3-4 years. This represents an especially mineral but also stimulating rendition of its great site. Scents of oceanic inspiration and depth lead to a saliva-inducing palate presence tinged with salt chalk and iodine. Lime grapefruit and their rinds serve for juicy primary fruit as well as zesty pungency. This at once scours and refreshes the palate and at the same time lays down seemingly indelible mineral and citrus oil traces whose bitter concentration might strike some tasters as too austere. Seldom though will you experience a wine that combines palpable density with levity invigoration and refreshment in the manner of this particular tonic.