The three barrels of Thibault Liger-Belair 2008 Corton Les Rognet seems to reflect its iron-rich site (whose fruit he purchases but whose vines he personally farms) in the pungently smoky edge Szechuan pepper pungency and aura of bacon fat that accrues to its tart blackberry and red currant melange. Abundant tannins are well-woven into the fabric here; there is a lovely sense of levity for a wine so palpably extract-rich; and chalk and smoke add to the stimulation of bright finishing fruit. I suspect this will be worth following for at least 8-10 years. -David Schildknecht

A perfumed if moderately earthy red berry fruit suffused nose introduces concentrated and serious broad-shouldered flavors that offer a textured mouth feel and like the Toppe au Vert are supported by dense but relatively fine tannins and impressive length. This is an elegant Corton which is an adjective rarely used to describe any of the Corton climats outside of Bressandes or Pougets. Worth considering.