The 2008 El Alma de Jonata is fully mature, wafting from the glass with a lavish bouquet of sweet berry fruit, fruit compote, marmalade, tobacco and dark chocolate that has nicely integrated its oak component. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied with fine-grained structuring tannins, becoming quite savory with age, its structure asserting itself more prominently on the finish as its first flush of primary fruit fades. Now's a good time to start pulling corks. - William Kelley