Touch of reduction at first, but as it opens this just sings with purity of cassis, bilberry, blackberry puree, liqourice root, chocolate drops, earth. Speaks with the same voice as the great early vintages of 1982, 1990 but with more precision, depth and clarity, a brilliant vintage that is tasting so good right now. A significant year in Clerc Milon's history also - Jean-Emmaneul Danjoy arived from Opus One, giving Clerc its own dedicated team for the first time, and the new cellar was officially unveiled, meaning it was possible to separately vinify the Petit Verdot and Carmanère, that had been co-fermented until this point. The second wine Pastourelle de Clerc Milon was also introduced this year, further increasing selection. Harvest September 23 to 13 October, 50% new oak.

The 2009 from Clerc-Milon is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 44% Merlot, the balance 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% each Petit Verdot and Carmenère, this being one of the few big-name properties in Bordeaux to make use of this latter variety. It has a dark and maturing hue in the glass, with a good depth of pigment, quite typical for this vintage. The nose is exotic, as expected for 2009, with black bean, liquorice, spiced fruits and black olive notes. There follows a supple and lightly polished palate, where it shows its structure, more so than the vintage did at the outset of course, when it was all puppy fat. Indeed this now feels beautifully composed and built, with black fruit and a dry grip of tannins at the end. Classic 2009 on the nose, with better structure than hoped-for on the palate. - Chris Kissack

Juicy and nicely framed with a singed bay leaf note which allows the medium-weight core of crushed plum and mulled fig to glide along nicely through the velvety finish. This fleshes out considerably as it sits in the glass showing more layers of dark fruit and lingering minerality. This has some power in reserve but lovely balance as well. Best from 2013 through 2024. -JM

A final blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon 44% merlot 4% cabernet franc with 1% each of petite verdot and carmenere that was aged in 1/3 new oak. This ruby colored release possessed ripe fruit and complex spices including plum cassis pepper and mocha complemented by fresh flowers and scorched earth. The medium bodied palate displays fine grained tannins with cherries and tart raspberries. The mid palate is structured with high acidity and plenty of flare wonderful on the elegant finish. Needs another couple of years and should last 15+.

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Clerc Milon gives up notes of blueberry compote, blackcurrant preserves and prunes with hints of fried herbs, fertile loam and pencil lead. Medium-bodied, firm and taut with a grainy texture and seamless freshness, it has a good core of earth-laced black fruit and an understated finish. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown