Light tannins and a smoky mineral note frame this lush red which displays layers of black cherry raspberry ganache and tea rose flavors. There's a spicy thread running through the wine leading to a fresh firm finish. Drink now

Effusively and sweetly fruity as usual the 2009 Morgon Jean Descombes (tasted from tank) is scented with creme de cassis black raspberry preserves and pear liqueur; silkenly saturates the palate with rich yet infectiously juicy fruit concentrate; and introduces a saline note that along with its sense of juicy freshness makes for a stimulating finish. This perennially outstanding value will probably pick up more complexity over the next 12-18 months and be worth following for at least twice that long. (That said in the form of La Chaponne and Mont Chavy Jean Descombes has for a change got serious competition in this vintage from within the Duboeuf portfolio.) -David Schildknecht