A very ripe and mildly exotic yellow fruit profile is nuanced by hints of wet stone and oyster shell both of which can be found on the suave and mouth coating flavors that are delicious powerful and long if less complex than I am used to seeing with this wine.

The 2009 Chablis Vaudesir is all about nuance. This is one of the more inward chiseled wines among the 2009s. The finely sculpted white stone fruits and flowers flesh out nicely on the mid-palate leading to an open radiant finish. The Vaudesir is another terrific showing from Droin. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. This is an exciting set of wines from Benoit Droin one of the generation of rising stars in Chablis. The estate farms nine hectares of vineyards. Benoit Droin told me his choice of when to start picking in 2009 was deeply influenced by 2006 a year in which he felt he waited too long. The 2009s were brought in beginning in early September. The wines were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in steel and/or barrel depending on the specific wine as noted above. The 2010s which I tasted from tank in their final blends were among the highlights of my trip to Chablis. The 2010 harvest began on September 20th. Yields were down 30% on average. I also tasted a few older bottles including the 2002 Valmur and 2004 Vaudesir both of which were in great shape. -AG