Served blind at the Southwold 2009 tasting. Nobody could quite believe how well the Chapelle de la Mission ‘09 showed under blind conditions. It is endowed with a quintessential Graves-like nose with ebullient black fruit, black olive, singed leather and a touch of graphite. It is very composed and focused, the oak very well embroidered into the fruit profile. The palate is backward and tightly coiled at the moment with insistent grip towards the bright, luscious finish that manages to maintain tension and poise. This is offering so much pleasure now - it will be interesting to see how it evolves.

A plush, modern style version, with a rounded feel to the spice-tinged structure that supports the fleshy blackberry and raspberry confiture flavors. Fruitcake and dark anise chime in the background and echo through the suave, well-coated finish. Best from 2014 through 2025. 5,800 cases made. –JM

The second wine, the 2009 La Chapelle de la Mission, is essentially an equal part blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with slightly more Cabernet Franc that came in at 14.2% natural alcohol. It reveals an extraordinary meaty nose displaying hints of volcanic soils, burning embers, sweet black currants, blueberries, plums, tobacco leaf and wet stones. This tasty, full-bodied, supple-textured beauty should drink well for 15-20 years. - Robert Parker