This is actually compositionally similar to the aromatic profile of the Montée de Tonnerre though here the mineral reduction and citrus components are stronger. There is really lovely purity to the punchy, sappy and saline-infused flavors that possess a highly attractive mix of power and refinement, all wrapped in a lemony, driving, even explosive finish that is borderline painfully intense. This beautifully well-balanced effort will require up to a decade to arrive at its peak though it should be approachable young.

The Raveneaus’ 2011 Chablis Blanchots mingles bittersweet floral perfume, salt- and iodine-tinged crustacean shell reduction, and piquant huckleberry in a bright, juicy matrix of grapefruit and lemon. Subtly oily in texture yet buoyant, this finishes with glowing intensity and outright refreshment. Plan to follow it through at least 2022. Isabelle Raveneau suggests that, especially in this vintage, the grand crus display not just the dividend in richness that would generally be expected, but also an advantage in energy, quality of acids, and ultimately age-worthiness. Lucky those who will be in a position to test that hypothesis over the coming decade! - David Schildknecht