Very lemony (blossoms, zest and candied peel), with some red-berry and fresh tobacco-leaf notes. Impressive richness and concentration, the creaminess from lees beautifully matched by the fine mousse and mineral freshness. The latter also powers the structured and saline finish that makes a serious statement. A blend of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, disgorged in 2020. Drink or hold.

The 2012 Champagne Millésime Brut is classic and harmonious. Layered and ripe with brioche, hazelnut, and baked apple, it is mouth-filling and round, with a pillowy mousse of ripe pear, custard, and orange oil. This is an assertive and forward wine with a timeless feel. Drink 2023-2043. - Audrey Frick

Soon to be released in magnum, the 2012 Brut Millésimé continues to show well, delivering aromas of citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, buttery pastry and beeswax and framed by a deft touch of smoky reduction. Medium to full-bodied, racy and chiseled, with fine depth at the core and a long, penetrating finish, this bottle was disgorged in summer 2021. - William Kelley

On release this showed an energetic, tighter side that seems to have settled and relaxed rather quickly into quite a decadent style, even for the extreme ripeness of 2012. There’s some caramel and coffee macaron over charred grapefruit and roasted stone fruit, with tropical warmth and succulence through the rich, citrus syrup and praline palate. A fine, exuberant and plush cuvée whose drinking window is already well open.

A mouthwatering Champagne with a linear focus, which presents as up-front drive in a restrained, subtle way. Features a fine, satiny mousse that carries a range of toasted hazelnut, ripe black currant, mandarin orange peel, verbena and espresso crema notes, which unfurl on the palate and echo on the lasting finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged 2019. Drink now through 2032. - AN