The Fontenys bottling can often be the most closed and structurally-defined wine out of the blocks at Domaine Roty, but the inherent elegance of the 2012 vintage has worked its charms on this wine as well and it is really very refined already. The deep and pure nose wafts from the glass in a lovely blend of black cherries, black plums, grilled meats, bitter chocolate, dark soil tones, a touch of fresh nutmeg, new oak and a topnote of woodsmoke. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very elegant on the attack, with plenty of power in reserve at the sappy core, fine-grained tannins and excellent length and grip on the focused and very promising finish. This could well be the finest young vintage of Fontenys I have ever tasted chez Roty!

(WA91-93 points) The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny, which sees around 60% new wood, is robed in a deep ruby color. The new oak is dominating the aromatics at present, which makes it difficult discerning the fruit or the terroir. The palate is medium-bodied with good extraction on the entry. This has an attractive supple texture, quite spicy at first then segueing into a lovely fig-tinged finish. That new oak is a little oppressive but I suspect it will meld into the fabric of this wine with 5-6 years bottle age. - Neal Martin

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er Cru has a lovely nose with vivacious red berry fruit, mandarin and inkwell scents, precocious yet delineated. The palate displays well-integrated oak and fine weight. It's pretty animally in style with white pepper and touches of clove towards its supple, slightly feral finish. A feisty Fonteny! Tasted at the Southwold Burgundy dinner at Hatched restaurant. -- Neal Martin