A complex red with rose petals, violets, crushed stones and cherries follows through to a full body and chewy tannins that are poised and polished. Extremely long and intense. A top wine for the vintage. This needs three or four years, maybe more, to come together.

This is opulent and powerful, offering black cherry, black currant, plum, leather, iron and tobacco flavors boosted by the racy acidity. Overall, this feels firm and complex, with a long finish. Not your typical style from the northern part of the Brunello di Montalcino zone, yet compelling. Best from 2022 through 2038. — B.S.

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano remains youthfully shy in the glass, with hints of cedar spice box, crushed dried flowers and smoky spice forming its bouquet. It’s wonderfully elegant and round in feel, soothing the palate with a mix of balanced acids and ripe red and black fruits tinged with salted licorice. This tapers off incredibly long and structured through the finale, yet nicely balanced as well, with an echo of blue- and purple-toned inner florals that linger. -- Eric Guido

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a dark and thickly extracted expression. It is one of the blackest Brunellos you will find in this report. This rich red wine takes a little longer to open because those primary aromas are buried deep under all that bulk and power. Indeed, this wine is almost too much of a good thing. It moves with slow-motion laziness, and the bouquet is in absolutely no rush to show what it has in store. At its leisure, it will deliver dried blackberry, cassis, bitter chocolate, spice, campfire ash and sticky tar. There is some tannic astringency that will (hopefully) integrate with time. This is a hearty and satisfying wine to drink in the heart of winter with gentle snowflakes fluttering outside your window. It is a romantic wine in heart and soul. -Monica Larner

Earthy aromas of thyme, truffle, scorched earth and dark berry pave the way. The forward concentrated palate offers ripe black plum, pipe tobacco, licorice and a touch of nutmeg set against firm tannins. Drink from 2022–2029. KERIN O’KEEFE