(96+ points) Packaged with the black label, the Bruno Rocca 2013 Barbaresco Maria Adelaide pours from the bottle with a medium garnet color and an elegantly compact appearance. The bouquet has moved away from primary intensity to embrace some beautiful tertiary definition; however, it appears lively and bright nonetheless. This special bottling (made with a selection of the estate's best fruit) shows lots of the proverbial red fruit energy (as opposed to dark fruit) that is so specific to Nebbiolo. Maria Adelaide undergoes a more drawn out oak regime with 18 months in barrique followed by another 12 months in oak casks. A mere 3,000 bottles exist.

The 2013 Barbaresco Maria Adelaide is a selection of the best fruit from both Rabajà and Currà. It is also the most overtly ample and creamy of these wines. Here, too, the wine's balance is simply compelling. Moreover, the natural power of Rabajà and the nerve of Currà are hugely complementary. The 2013 spent eighteen months in French oak. So much has changed here over the last few years. The Maria Adelaide remains the Barbaresco that is most closely linked to the wines Bruno Rocca made when he was solely in charge of the estate. -- Antonio Galloni