This is still really tight, with racy floral and green plum edges along the core flavors of white peach, mirabelle plum, melon and green fig, but this has stunning length, with a rapier of minerality that matches the sweetness step for step on the long, quinine-infused finish. Best from 2018 through 2038. - J.M.

(WA90-92 points) The 2013 Guiraud has a generous bouquet of rich honeyed fruit interlaced with quince and hints of marmalade, though I would like to see more mineralite and tension by the time of bottling. The palate is well-balanced with a spice-tinged entry, touches of Seville orange and mandarin emerging with time. There is good depth here, fine density with plenty of sinew toward the saline-tinged finish. - NEAL MARTIN