(90+) The 2013 Chassagne villages from the Fontaine family is excellent, wafting from the glass in a complex and vibrant blend of apple, pear, spring flowers, a refined base of chalky soil tones, a touch of vanillin oak and a topnote of orange zest. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and vibrant, with a good core, lovely soil drive and a long and classy finish. This will drink with great style right from the moment of its release, but it has the requisite balance to also age very well indeed. Lovely juice. (Drink between 2015-2035)

A smoky nose presents notes of lemongrass, pear, apple and soft petrol nuances. There is good punch to the intense and solidly detailed middle weight flavors that also culminate in a clean, dry and lingering finish that offers notably better depth. This will drink well young but should also reward a few years of bottle age.

The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has quite a rounded, generous bouquet with dry honey notes infusing the citrus fruit. The palate is fresh and rounded, tinged with a little “fatness” on the finish, whilst there are hints of brioche and toffee apple lingering on the aftertaste. This is a fine steely Chassagne. - Neal Martin