Make no mistake, this is not a Chardonnay for the faint of heart nor is it one that will be welcome with a plate of oysters on the half shell, but it shows the kind of sheer richness and range that no other white grape can. It is immense stuff, to be sure, but it never once even hints at being out of control, and its deep and delectable, fully ripe fruit is juxtaposed with complexing elements of vanilla, sweet toast and hints of roasted grains and lemon zest. Although it pays its way with a scant touch of heat, its rewards are many and its foibles are few.

Rich and layered, with well-focused green apple, pear, green fig and floral citrus notes, ending with dense butterscotch accents and lingering on the finish. Picks up a touch of smoky oak and anise. Drink now through 2021. — J.L.