A perennial standout, this Syrah is cofermented with 10% Viognier, all fruit sourced from a site on the western edge of Sonoma Mountain in the cool confines of the Petaluma Gap. Beautiful and bold, it imparts a focused line of blackberry and lavender flavors over a lush backdrop of sizzling acidity and smoked meat scents.

It's not cheap but it is stunning. Fans of northern Rhône wines will recognise the class, gloss, excitement and majestic fragrance of ripe Syrah, all leather and black pepper, but this is not a frail embryonic bud. It's already a gorgeous wine in full bloom, overlaid with just the right level of ripeness – nothing excessively sweet but enough to make it gulpable already. Think juicy black olives and something particularly savoury – umami, perhaps. As usual with any tasting note on JancisRobinson.com, we try to suggest a drinking window and in this case I think probably 2016 to 2024 – quite an extended one for a California Syrah, but then Ramey's wines are hugely distinctive.

92+ Co-fermented with 10% Viognier, the 2013 Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard has a medium garnet color and notes of jasmine and lavender over a black pepper and tar cor, with fruit notes of blackberries and black raspberries. The medium-bodied palate is earthy/savory in character, with a solid frame of chewy tannins and plenty of spice layers on the finish. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown