This has all the cherry and spice and perfume that defines this consistently stunning pinot noir, as well as a sense of immense freshness. The palate has deceptive lightness and tannins that are supple and caressing and that kick fresh and expansive out through the finish. Succulent and elegant. A great vintage for this wine. Drink now. Screw cap.

Ata Rangi's current release, the 2016 Pinot Noir, features hints of sage leaves and minty stemminess, beautifully balanced by plush fruit. It's medium to full-bodied, with silkier tannins than the muscular 2015, giving it a lush, welcoming texture and a smooth, seamless finish redolent of tea and roses.- JC

This is pure, scented and delicate on the mid-palate counterbalanced by its density. It's a pretty expression, with sweet up-front plum fruit and a fine line of acidity and sinew, drawing this wine out on the medium-long finish. The whole bunch component has risen from 20% to 35% since 2013.

Like many of this renowned producer's wines, this is a bottle to take your time with. It changes with every pour, from bright cranberry and raspberry fruit to licorice; from dried roses and violets to sandalwood and savory spice. The palate is medium bodied and silky textured, with tightly wound, leathery tannins and fruit that feels like you could take a bite out of it. Through it all is Ata Rangi's signature mineral streak. For all its appeal, however, this wine is still a baby, elegant and complex but austere. Drink through 2028. CHRISTINA PICKARD